Let's dig in.
First, let's check out the quick recap of the finals
Now that you're caught up on the finish, let's think about one race in particular- Veddriq vs Peng Wu in the 1/4 final
Imagine a year ago. What would your reaction be if you told someone that 5.03 didn't advance to the next round. Then imagine that reaction if you were told that the winner of that round didn't even set a world record. That would have have been mind blowing. Then imagine you were told that it was 96% humidity and that the wall was slick.
Veddriq mistimed his swing start and had a pedestrian .219 rection compared to Wu's .145. Give him Wu's reaction time and you've got another sub 5 for Veddriq. Give Wu a slightly better yet still legal reaction and we'd have the second competitor under 5.
On a wall that isn't brand new (and dry) like in Seoul.
What is going to happen in the drier air of SLC?
Provided the teams from Asia and Europe get to Utah with enough time to acclimate to timezone, weather, temps, and altitude, I'm expecting multiple world records from both genders.
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